Crossing Over

Being ever mindful of the finicky weather patterns of Western Canada in the fall, we have been watching closely as a big low pressure system bringing rain and much cooler temperatures has been building off the coast. It is expected to hit later this week, with a preview today (we even saw some snow dusting the mountain peaks around Golden this morning!). We had originally planned to stay in Golden for a couple more days for a proper rest, but we realized we should move earlier to beat the bad weather as we attempt to cross the Rockies. Thus, we set off this morning to cross the Rockies to Lake Louise, Alberta.

The ride was a tough one: 49 miles of climbing, totaling 4,200 feet, with only 2 miles of downhill at the very end. Even leaving Golden involved a steep climb out of the valley, providing a fast warm-up to start our day. It was another day of endurance, but the views were stunning. The glacial powder-blue Kicking Horse River accompanied us up the first part of the pass. Then, the majestic peaks of Yoho National Park and, eventually, Banff National Park revealed their grandeur. Low-hanging clouds wreathed the peaks, and we experienced brief bouts of drizzle, alternating with moments when we thought the sun might make an appearance (but it never really did).

We had to ride the entire way on the Trans-Canada Highway, but overall, traffic was manageable. The national parks create beautiful roads with wide shoulders, so we always felt safe along the side of the road. We stopped to take photos, drink water, and snack on bars to keep our energy levels up, which was essential given the constant climb.

When we finally reached the top of Kicking Horse Pass, we were greeted by a rainbow over the Bow River Valley, where Lake Louise sits. By this point, the weather had deteriorated, and temperatures had plummeted. Despite my wool gloves, my fingers were frozen. In fact, it took over an hour and a hot bath to restore any feeling to them!

Riding into the Lake Louise area brought back so many memories: the time Andy and I skied Lake Louise in temperatures so sub-zero that my nose turned blue with the onset of frostbite; and, the time my family visited and hiked around the lake when we were teenagers (my youngest sister, Beannie, was just a child). It is a stunning area. We plan to ride up to the lake tomorrow before heading to Banff, as we are staying in the little village of Lake Louise, not directly on the lake. The town is packed with people from all over the world, with so many tourists still taking in the beauty of fall in the Canadian Rockies. I will say, we may be the only ones here who have done it by bicycle!