View from the Salmon River Country Inn in Head of Jeddore, NS Our last night of the ride was spent at the Salmon River Country Inn in the village of Head of Jeddore, NS. It was the perfect place to enjoy our final evening before our last ride into Halifax. The inn had amazing views, and the seafood served at the restaurant was exceptional. We woke up to dense fog and low visibility, so we waited until late morning to set off. The ride into Halifax took only a few hours. It fe

Looking back at the Salmon River Country Inn we stayed at in Head of Jeddore We woke on Thursday for our final ride to low clouds and fog. The ride from The Head of Jeddore, where we had stayed at a great German-Canadian country inn, to Halifax was only 33 miles but it was mostly along the highway with very little shoulder, so it was a bit nerve wracking at times. There was a great five mile section of a greenway trail through the woods, however, which was wonderful. All al

Today was our second-to-last day of riding on this tour. Endurance-wise, it has been demanding due to the region's remoteness and challenging terrain. It feels satisfying to be at this point, knowing we only have one 35-mile ride left to complete the nearly 1,600 miles from Montreal to Halifax, via Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail. Our journey in 31 days of riding. Today's ride made me reflect on the importance of planning, preparation, conditioning, and flexibility. Th

Last night we had a quiet evening in the town of Sheet Harbour on the eastern coast. We did find a brew pub close by called Sober Island Brewing, named for Sober Island off the coast of Sheet Harbour. I wish I knew what the story is behind that name, as I am certain it could be a good one, but for now, I haven't found anything reliable to explain it. The brewery closed at 6 pm, and served no food, so we went in search of a place to eat dinner. There was not much choice. We

Today began with breakfast in the lodge's oceanfront dining room, where we observed a variety of birdlife through the window, including a couple of large Ospreys—the official bird of Nova Scotia—fishing in the cove. We sat next to a kind and informative wildlife photographer who educated us about the local wildlife. Although we are only about 150 miles from Halifax, the route we are cycling—Highway 7, the east coast road—is remote and home to bobcats, bears, moose, bald eagle

Pink Lady Slipper Orchid Today, we talked about how our days no longer seem saturated with the fast-paced world of bad news, fast food, fast traffic, and in-your-face ads about insurance, medical issues, and prescriptions. For the past few weeks, we have instead become governed by the rhythms of nature: the temperature, the wind, sunrise, and nightfall. How refreshing it all is! How simple! The Purple Finch As I watched the birds this morning over breakfast, it struck me that

Sunset over Antigonish Last night was one of those perfect summer evenings. We spent the night in Antigonish, NS, marking a return visit for us. The last time we were here, the weather was cold and windy, but this time we were treated to a spectacular summer night. We enjoyed a couple of beers on the rooftop of an old historic building, where we could take in stunning views of the entire town and St. Francis Xavier University. The evening on the rooftop will certainly be one

Our route (in red) When most people find themselves on the north coast of Nova Scotia near New Glasgow or Antigonish (as we were), and want to get to Halifax, which sits on the south coast, they will most often take the Highway 102 which cuts straight from the head of the Bay of Fundy in Truro and then drive south to Halifax. Then there is the Other Way. This one is to follow the Highway 7 south from Antigonish and then drive along the coastal route south west to Halifax, a

Sunset at the Cove Motel and Restaurant, Auld's Cove We left what has become a favorite spot for us, the Cove Motel and Restaurant, this morning after a wonderful evening of music, food, and an extraordinarily long, picturesque sunset over the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It was one of those sunsets that draws you in, revealing the story of nature and, in a strange way, offering a momentary glimpse of the gift of life. The Cove Restaurant's famous Lobster, Scallops, Shrimp, Haddock

Same photo as six days ago, just more pretty! Six days ago, we rode from Antigonish, Nova Scotia, to Auld's Cove. Today, we retraced that same route in reverse, from Auld's Cove to Antigonish. This is the only time on this bike tour that we will need to revisit old steps. What a difference between the two rides! The last time I passed over these roads, the weather was "cloudy with strong winds up to 40 mph, and the chill was bone-deep." Today, it was sunny, with little to no

Three full days in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park section of the Cabot Trail challenged us and spoiled us at the same time. The steep ascents, with lasting grades reaching up to 15%, and the wild, twisty technical descents made this section one of the most demanding rides we've ever undertaken together. However, it was the surrounding nature, empty roads, and sense of solitude that made these days unforgettable. Pedaling through such natural beauty while listening to

A tribute to Alexander Graham Bell We spent last night in the charming little town of Baddeck, Nova Scotia, which sits alongside the expansive inlet lake known as Bras d'Or, meaning "Arms of Gold," in reference to the golden reflections on the water at sunset. Baddeck is famous as the retirement home of Alexander Graham Bell, the inventor of the telegraph and telephone. I didn’t know this, but while he lived in Baddeck, he continued to invent things, including the first metal

Jud Gunning from Pictou, Nova Scotia Last night at the Keltic Lodge in Ingonish, Nova Scotia, we were treated to a very special musical evening. Cape Breton Island is home to exceptional local musicians, and last night we experienced the gift of a folk artist who played excellent songs by Canadian musicians such as Gordon Lightfoot and Neil Young. Throughout his performance, he engaged us with revealing storytelling that taught us a great deal about the roots and history of

I woke up this morning feeling tired. Yesterday was quite a day of cycling, with almost 4,000 feet of climbing in total. No wonder I was worn out! I slept well and had a hearty meal the night before (Cape Breton fish and chips with salad), but after cycling for seven straight days without a rest, I was feeling it. We also had to bike a few miles to find a place for coffee and breakfast. That short distance (maybe 2 miles?) with an empty stomach and no caffeine made me feel li

Cape Breton beauty and wind Cape Breton Island and the wind go hand in hand. The wind-whipped trees that surround the island are evidence of that. Today, we woke up to a howling wind, but also clear skies and bright sunshine. I checked our weather apps, and there was good news and bad news. A nice tailwind was predicted at the start of the ride, but a nasty headwind was anticipated at the end. It didn’t really matter to us since we were excited to take on the second day of th

The title of this blog entry reflects my husband's belief that I am the expert meteorologist between the two of us. As a former science teacher and weather enthusiast, I happily accepted that role. It involves checking weather apps multiple times a day (my preferred app is Windy) to triple-check the wind strength and direction, cloud cover, and temperature. The most important factor for cyclists, of course, is the wind. It can quickly make a ride fantastic or extremely challe

Today started with anticipation and excitement for the road ahead. We knew we would be entering Cape Breton Highland National Park, where the Cabot Trail runs through. We anticipated riding through pristine wilderness, but nothing could prepare us for the experiences that awaited us on today’s ride. Last Chance Sandwich We set off after the heavy ocean rain had passed through Cheticamp, leaving only low clouds and, thankfully, high tailwinds. Just about a mile up the road, we

Fresh Cape Breton Snow Crab and Lobster! The northwestern coast of Cape Breton Island is part of Acadia, a term that describes the locations where descendants of French settlers in northeastern North America live. The Acadians of Cape Breton are unique, however, in their language, which blends French, Scottish, and English. It is quite distinctive, with a strong accent that can be difficult to understand. Imagine someone speaking French with a thick Scottish accent and a bit

Looking north from the Inverness beach and golf course. This tour, like all tours, brings surprises, insights, and appreciation. The tour of Canada’s Atlantic Provinces is no exception. I’ve visited Canada multiple times in my life and noticed subtle differences between life in Canada and life in the USA. Our slow pace has allowed us to appreciate and absorb the unique cultures and lifestyles of the region, especially in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia where a short distance separat

Breakfast at the Dancing Goose Bakery! We woke to a clear blue sky and a brisk wind—beautiful but blustery. Fortunately for us, the wind was in our favor, mostly as a tailwind with some crosswinds. Knowing we had only 35 miles to bike today, we took a more leisurely morning: writing our blogs, sipping coffee, and chatting with other guests at the Dusky Diamond B&B. Afterward, we rode down to the beach to snap some photos, then headed into town for a late breakfast/lunch at th