Day 12: Patagonian Winds

We spent most of our three full days in Coyhaique resting, enjoying the warm summer sun, and preparing for the second half of our journey, which will be far more challenging than the first. Most of our preparation took place at the Dolbek Brewery, where we strategized for the upcoming rides and identified places to stay. We even met and chatted with the owner of the brewery. One thing is certain: good beer and fresh water go hand in hand, which is why Chilean Aysén beer is among the best.

Today's ride began under the warm summer sun on an almost windless Sunday morning. This calm was deceptive, as the ride quickly changed with an intense tailwind propelling us forward. It shot us through the gorgeous countryside toward Villa Cerro Castillo, our next stop.

Like the weather, the landscape also changed dramatically. The first part of the ride was exhilarating as the wind propelled us through farmland, surrounded by mountains. The bright sun, cloudless blue sky, and tailwind created perfect riding conditions. However, we knew that things would soon change, as our route would loop back and turn that magical tailwind into a fierce headwind, forcing us to climb a long, arduous pass to reach Cerro Castillo.

By the afternoon, we found ourselves facing a long, unforgiving ascent, battling a significant headwind along with an unexpected weather change that brought winter conditions. As is sometimes the case in Patagonia, summer turned to winter in an instant.

After completing the climb, only the descent remained, which should have been thrilling. Unfortunately, clouds and rain moved in, and we had waited too long to put on our rain gear. This resulted in a cold, prolonged descent into the village where we would spend the night. Fortunately, upon arriving at our lodge, Sendaros Patagonia, we found a warm fire burning. We warmed up, unpacked our panniers, and headed off to dinner. From our table, we watched as the weather finally cleared, revealing breathtaking views of Cerro Castillo.