Day 14: Thank You, Dora!

The day began with a hearty Chilean breakfast in Doña Dora’s small farmhouse, where she raised four boys. It was a special experience to be invited into her home and listen to her stories about farm life. Living in Patagonia is not for the faint of heart; it requires grit, toughness, and an embrace of the wildness that surrounds you. It is certainly not an easy life, but for Dora, it has been incredibly rewarding. She has lived on the farm for over 40 years and, despite being our senior, her lifestyle has kept her youthful and vibrant. Her beautifully manicured garden reflects her humanity and life experience, and being invited into her home has been one of the greatest gifts of our trip.

Today's ride to Puerto Tranquilo was short but challenging due to the steep climbs. Puerto Tranquilo is also a major tourist destination as it serves as an access point to the Marble Caves. The increased traffic resulted in significantly more dust than yesterday, which was a bit of a joy kill. We were fortunate to secure a room at one of the few hotels in town, El Puesto. The setting felt like living within a temperate rainforest.

Finding accommodations is indeed one of the biggest challenges of the ride, especially if you want to avoid camping. In previous visits to Patagonia, finding lodging was never a problem. Unfortunately, tourism has surged in Patagonia, and the number of visitors in December, January, and February far exceeds available accommodations, making planning essential—and sometimes difficult—when cycling. The good news, however, is that corporate hotels and typical tourist chains have not yet made their way here, so small hotels, lodges, and family-owned cabañas remain the primary sources of lodging. Hopefully, it will stay that way.