Day 19: Cycling the Wilds to Caleta Tortel

We began the day with a typical Chilean breakfast at the home of the owner of the small campground. Our camping experiences have felt more like homestays, offering an authentic glimpse into the people and culture of Patagonia. The warmth and kindness of the Chileans have been a highlight of this trip, and we are grateful to those who have welcomed us into their homes.

Today's ride was essentially a continuation of yesterday, but it felt even more remote as we journeyed to the second-to-last town on the Carretera, Caleta Tortel. The road took us from the mountains to the ocean in just over four hours. The dramatic change in landscapes over such a short distance was stunning. We started the day surrounded by snow-covered mountains, then rode through a brief valley before descending through a temperate rainforest until we reached the ocean town of Caleta Tortel. This town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is surrounded by snow-capped fjords. Instead of roads, it is connected solely by walkways and stairs, which complicates maneuvering our bikes and panniers through town to reach our accommodations—a challenge in itself.

The weather here is intense, with almost constant rain. However, the rain often passes, revealing moments of sunshine that highlight the extraordinary beauty of the town and its surroundings. Accommodations are scarce, and we are fortunate to have found a room for two nights, though nothing is available beyond that—at least for now. This puts us in a difficult position, as the weather is expected to worsen as we head south, with snow forecasted. Unless we can secure additional nights in Tortel, we will need to devise a Plan B for the next steps. Getting to O’Higgins shouldn't be a problem, but exiting from there will be challenging. We had planned to take a ferry from O'Higgins to a hike-and-bike trail leading to El Chaltén, Argentina, but with winter conditions anticipated, we could be stuck in O’Higgins for an extended period. We've also heard rumors of a 7-10 day wait for ferry tickets out of O’Higgins because of the large number of cyclists who are down there and a limited ferry space and schedule. 

We have a lot to think about tonight as the rain pounds down on the thin roof above us. Fortunately, we have the day off tomorrow to either attempt to extend our stay here or come up with a creative solution for revising our route plan.