Day 23: An Unforgettable Ride to the Finish

We shared our plan with Justin, the son of the owner of Patagonia Acres Lodge,

about trying to complete the rest of the ride in one day. He has driven that road over 50 times since moving here and knows it well. He didn’t discourage us, but did say that if we tire, we could knock on a farmer’s door and ask to camp on their property since there are no established campsites or accommodations until we reach Chile Chico. His suggestion was a kind of subtle hint that most people would not necessarily attempt this ride in a single day. After looking at the ride profile, feeling rested, and being at the peak of our fitness level since starting the Carretera, we decided to go for it, knowing that if it got to be too much, we could pitch a tent.

The ride started with a classic Patagonian climb — long, sustained, and at times steep. In the morning, when a ride starts with a climb, as it often does, one of us yells out, “Good Morning Patagonia,” and we both crack up as we find humor and excitement in the good fortune to ride in what has to be one of the world’s most beautiful corners.

The remainder of the ride to Chile Chico did not disappoint. The twisting roads, steep climbs, and long descents on a road that sometimes seems to be built on a cliffside overlooking Lago General Carrera were undoubtedly the most challenging and thrilling part of our journey. The stunning beauty seemed to numb the progressing fatigue we were starting to feel. After about four hours, we hit the halfway point, a bit tired but encouraged by what we had accomplished so far and grateful for this fun and wild ride, at least so far. We scarfed down an excellent lunch that Patagonia Acres Lodge sent us off with, rested on a bridge overlooking a glaciated river, and then tackled the last half of the ride.

The lunch fueled us for most of the way, but we were both beginning to tire, and the pain of the ride began to creep in. The weather also started to turn, with an overcast sky and swirling wind. The climbs continued, and although you try to avoid thinking about time, I couldn’t help noticing we were climbing some hills at a speed of about two miles per hour. Short descents followed the climbs, bringing some relief and a sense of progress, but the climbs and steep pitches kept coming. As we sensed we were getting close and believed we had made the final, toughest ascent, we began a descent, only to look up and see another massive, steep climb ahead. Tired, a bit dispirited, and almost out of energy, we loaded up on energy bars and gels and locked into a zen-like mindset to complete what we knew would be that last major ascent. We reached the top, which included an extremely steep final pitch, and then coasted down on what must have been nearly a five-mile descent into Chile Chico. A well-earned hotel room, pizza, and beer awaited to celebrate the completion of an unforgettable ride and tour of the Carretera Austral and Aysén, Patagonia.

Cycling the Carretera is considered one of the world’s best bike rides. Understandably, it has become something of a pilgrimage for cyclists. They come from all over the world to experience Patagonia at the pace of a bike. We’ve enjoyed sharing stories and learning about their spirit for adventure and the reasons they are drawn to this very special place. If there is one thing we all share, it is the wonder of it all and a deep appreciation and gratitude that Patagonia remains unspoiled and a place to immerse oneself in the wilds of nature.