Riding High in the Highlands

Today started with anticipation and excitement for the road ahead. We knew we would be entering Cape Breton Highland National Park, where the Cabot Trail runs through. We anticipated riding through pristine wilderness, but nothing could prepare us for the experiences that awaited us on today’s ride.

Last Chance Sandwich

We set off after the heavy ocean rain had passed through Cheticamp, leaving only low clouds and, thankfully, high tailwinds. Just about a mile up the road, we saw signs for a bakery, services, and a last-chance sandwich, all reminding us

that we were about to enter the park. Still thinking about yesterday’s stop at the Inverness bakery, we decided to indulge again. Under overcast and foggy skies, we devoured our pastries and fueled up on coffee. With our stomachs full and an impressive amount of calories consumed over the last twelve hours, we were ready to tackle the beauty and serious climbs ahead.

At the park entrance booth, we paid the more than reasonable entrance fee and discussed our riding plans with the ranger. While she was informative, her warnings about wild coyotes chasing cyclists were unsettling. She mentioned a recent incident in which a hiker was killed by a coyote, which they were studying to understand the attack better. She also reminded us to be cautious of bears and moose, emphasizing that we were entering their territory and that awareness and distance are key to safety in the park. Admittedly, this discussion was worrisome and somewhat deflating—a definite buzzkill.

We appreciated the ranger's warnings and made sure to ride together, keeping a close distance between our bikes. As we entered the park, the transition was starkly noticeable: traffic diminished, and the landscape became wild and unadulterated. The feeling of elation and excitement quickly returned, and that ride to our next destination, Pleasant Bay, Nova Scotia, brought a natural high that I’ve only experienced while hiking or biking in pristine surroundings. My senses felt amplified, with joy, happiness, and a sense of euphoria permeating my mind and body. The ride took us up steep, long ascents through high overcast skies, dense fog, mountain lakes, and occasional sunbursts. Then, as we began our almost five-mile descent into Pleasant Bay, the sky opened up, the bright sun shone, and the deep blue ocean welcomed us to our next stop on this incredible cycling tour.

Letting the road take me on a ride.

At the bottom of the descent, we were on the lookout for an ice cream store to celebrate Molly’s dad’s birthday—his first since passing away at the ripe age of 96 last October. He would have loved today’s ride and would surely appreciate the high and magic of the experience. A birthday gift, indeed. Happy Birthday, Al!