Such a Tasty Ride

The ride down the St. Lawrence today (strangely, I keep feeling as if we are riding upriver toward the mouth of the river where it meets the Atlantic Ocean) continued in windy, cold, and overcast weather. Despite the conditions, the ride felt great. It was the perfect distance for a high headwind ride of only 38 miles.

In the town of St. Jean-Port Joli

We had a delayed start because my rear tire, which I’ve been using since we began the Patagonia ride, hasn’t been holding air. By the end of each ride, the tire loses pressure and is nearly flat. A headwind and low tire pressure are not a good combination for a joyful ride, but today’s journey was indeed enjoyable. After changing the tire at a local bike shop in Montmagny, we rode northeast toward La Pocatière, a very small town on the shore of the St. Lawrence. At times, it feels like time has stopped here. Some of the towns along the river were founded in the 1600s, and there is little sense of commercialism; the small-town atmosphere is alive and well.

Some 17th century architecture

Quebec fish and vegetable soup

The landscape is awe-inspiring, mainly due to its remoteness and the moody weather we are experiencing. The scenery has been compelling, but the true highlight of today’s ride was our long lunch at a tiny restaurant in St. Jean-Port Joli. There, we enjoyed a fish and vegetable soup that exploded with flavor in ways I can’t describe. Made with fresh ingredients, it was absolutely delicious and fortified us for the remainder of our ride. We arrived at our destination in what seemed like no time.

Our fitness is significantly improving, and the rides are starting to feel easier—good news considering the many challenges we will face as we make our way toward the Cabot Trail and eventually Halifax, weather permitting. Speaking of weather, we are heading into a big springtime nor'easter with high winds and lots of rain, which is unusual for this time of year. This means another layover in tomorrow’s destination, Rivière du Loup. It looks like a cool place to hang out for a couple of days. The weather is expected to clear a bit on Sunday, when we hope to continue our ride.