Day 16: The Gift of Sun

February 6, 2026.  Mallin Colorado to Puerto Bertrand. 14 miles.

Our day off at the Mallín Colorado Lodge on the southern arm of Lago Carrera was exactly the remedy we needed. The lodge sits above the lake, offering stunning views in a peaceful, nature-soaked setting. We kept warm, ate well, and slept soundly, and by today, we were ready for the next phase of our adventure.

We knew this next stretch was going to be beautiful, made more so by the bright sunshine, and so we purposefully are taking the next couple of days to enjoy it slowly. We only planned to do 14 miles, so we could take our time and soak in all the views, and we were not disappointed!

The gravel road wound up a pass between Lake Carrera and Lake Bertrand, another smaller lake renowned for the vibrant blue of it's water and the majestic mountains that encircle it. The lake is fed by the glaciers of the Northern Patagonia Ice Field directly to the west, which gives it its unique hue. Interestingly, this lake is small enough that in the summer months, the shallow areas warm just enough for people to swim in (which we witnessed!), though it still looked far too cold for me!

The lake drains south into the Baker River, which carries the same striking color as the lake. As it flows through the green forests, glimpses of it were truly stunning. The town of Puerto Bertrand is really just a tiny hamlet with one restaurant—a fun little pizza and beer place run by two young women who played great old rock music, singing and dancing as they worked.

We were fortunate to find a place to stay at Green Baker Lodge, just outside Puerto Bertrand, which featured a charming wooden cabin right on the riverbank. We fell asleep to the sound of the rushing river and the wind in the trees, wrapped in a pile of wool and sheepskin-lined blankets.

Map of Phase II of the Carretera Austral...so far...