Day 20: Plan B

Our planning day in Caleta Tortel turned into a bus trip back to Cochrane, where we found accommodations and much drier, warmer conditions. We used this time to develop a Plan B for completing our Carretera Austral journey. Although we were only a two-day bike ride from the terminus of the Carretera in O’Higgins, a winter weather warning, an uncertain ferry schedule with limited seating, and the possibility of a long wait in O’Higgins before we could catch a ferry to reach the hike/bike route that would take us to El Calafate led us to make a common-sense decision: modify our route and cross into Argentina via Highway 265 at the border crossing in Chile Chico. While we’re a bit disappointed to change our original plan, we’re excited about riding Highway 265, which is considered one of the most spectacular routes in the Aysén Region.

Leaving the Cochrane Valley

Today we started riding in the same direction as before, effectively reversing one of the tour’s best-remembered stretches. This time, the ride felt a bit easier, and instead of the gray, overcast skies last time, we enjoyed a warm, blue-sky day. The snow that had fallen over the past few days covered the surrounding mountain tops, rewarding us with some of the best views of the trip so far.

We also encountered a two-hour road-work delay, which didn’t bother us at all and gave us time to soak in the beauty around us and enjoy the summer sun we had been missing. We ended the day in Puerto Bertrand and are staying the night at a hotel overlooking the turquoise waters of the Rio Baker—simply magical.

On the Rio Baker